What to drink with sushi.

If you sit at our counter and ask the chef what to drink with sushi, you'll get one of three answers depending on the night, the chef, and what kind of mood the bar is in. Here's the long version.

Sake is the obvious answer and it's the right one most of the time. The trick is matching the temperature and the style to what's on the counter. A junmai daiginjo, served chilled, is a clean partner for raw fish — particularly white-fleshed sashimi like sea bream or yellowtail. A nuttier honjozo, served at room temperature, takes on the richer end of the menu (uni, fatty tuna, anything that's been touched by the robata).

Champagne is what we'd reach for if we were drinking with the table rather than at the counter. The acidity and bubbles cut through the richness of the rice, the soy and the wasabi. A Blanc de Blancs (100% Chardonnay) is precise and minerally — perfect for sushi. A rosé Champagne handles the heavier dishes and the robata.

Cold lager is the answer that surprises people. There's a reason every sushi-ya in Japan stocks Asahi or Sapporo by the keg. Lager is neutral, cold, and lets the fish do the talking. If you're not in the mood for sake or champagne, ask the bar for whatever's on draught.

What we'd avoid: heavy red wines (the tannins fight the rice), anything overly sweet (sugar masks the umami), and Coke or Pepsi (sorry — they kill the palate). If you're driving or just not drinking, sparkling water with a slice of lemon is a more honest pairing than fruit juice.

If you want a guided pairing, the omakase comes with a five-pour sake or champagne flight. The bar will also do a non-alcoholic pairing using teas and the kitchen's house cordials — ask when you book.